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Explore Zagreb through a city walk that serves up good city stories about various (mis)happenings at Zagreb’s historic café scene.

Who are we?

We are Kelnerice – a group of licensed Zagreb tourist guides who love to talk about our hometown. We specialize in stories about a time when a café (Croatian kavana) was the cultural institution, an empire of bohemianism, and a never-ending source of inspiration.

About Us

What does Kelnerice mean?

We love exploring stories about historical Zagreb and all its quirks, especially stories made in the café (Croatian kavana). During the period when a café was the cultural institution, an empire of bohemianism, and a never-ending source of inspiration, numerous fascinating stories were written into the history of Zagreb.

The word kelner comes from the German word kellner (eng. waiter) and it was used in Zagreb for decades. In Croatian, the word kelnerice means waitressess.

In 1892, the Association of Innkeepers and Cafeteria Owners published a booklet with a detailed list of members according to the categories of occupations in catering establishments. Since the publication is in German, the names of the professions are the same. The well-known title kellner, which we were inspired by, is mainly used to designate the job.

Thus, we will serve you with the most interesting city stories! 🙂

Đurđica Vitković

Founder of Kelnerice, licensed tour guide for Zagreb and Zagreb County, historian and croatologist. She loves to read, so she turned it into a job – proofreading, editing books, and creating themed city tours.



Pina Vitković

Licensed barker and professional sock stealer. She’s small but mighty and the true boss of the group. You may or may not encounter her on our tours, depending on whether she has better things to do.

Our Tours

Witches & Whispers: Zagreb’s Upper Town Tales

Upper Town of Zagreb is the old, medieval core of the city which hides many historical gems.Take a walk on cobblestone streets and discover all of the Upper Town’s wonders

Zagreb in Ink and Coffee: A Feminist Café Chronicle

For over a century, audiences have been loyal to Marija Jurić Zagorka, the first Croatian journalist and popular novelist. Find out what Zagorka could have heard while sneaking through the

Lower Town Cafés’ Stories

Kelnerice are taking you on a walk around the town, sharing merry, remarkable and sometimes even scandalous stories from its history. Learn about the types of coffee that were once

Merry Old Zagreb: Tales of Christmas Past

Get to know the city through stories of holidays long gone by and let us inspire you, among other things, to:wear out your dancing shoesmake original gifts from the pastwrite